puppy stroller

I went back to a little shop I've mentioned before, and to my surprise the little boutique isn't so little. There's a few more display rooms after the first one that I knew about, and an art gallery downstairs, and an artist at work in the way back, with another mini art gallery. I'm now entirely used to seeing dogs in stores and restaurants, but the dog in the stroller still tickles me everytime. The picture above reminds me of a fashion runway in the over-the-top-ness, but its still nice, and I loved the window curtains. The back room was so cozy on a cold winter day, I had to take a picture to remember it by, at the risk of disturbing the artist. It was for art's sake!

Marche de noel

Le marche de noel by night

and by day

Saturday morning market at Place Dalton

Voila, Fred's patisserie, everyone's favorite pâtisserie in Boulogne. And everything here is delicious. But this week I did discover that the best place for baguettes, contrary to popular belief, is Depaepe's. But Fred's has a lot more to offer, and you can eat a pastry or lunch upstairs or drink an espresso.

The market this morning at Place Dalton was bustling. Lots of seafood, flowers, cheeses, vegetables, fruit, meat, and much more is sold every Saturday morning here. All of the meat dealers at this market sell horse sausage, sadly. Horse meat is popular in the north of France, or at least historically it was popular with working class folks, and by the quantity available at the market, must still be popular for some people.

Lebkuchen

Yesterday Mareike went on a trip with her students to a Christmas market in Germany. She brought Julia, Richard, and I back a lebkuchen. It's something like soft gingerbread and common in Germany during Christmas. I'm really looking forward to enjoying my lebkuchen, even if they laugh when I try to say it. Mareike and I posing by our petite Christmas tree... we made the ornaments ourselves!!

Journée de la traduction

Richard and I were asked if we'd be interested in going to a Journee de la traduction which we went to since I don't pass up invitations! I wasn't happy about waking up early but little did I know we were going to a chateau for the conference! Finally I got to see a chateau here in France. It was in Hardelot (pronounced Ardelo) and beautiful... and even more beautiful because it was the first sunny day in at least a month.

The conference turned out to be really interesting. There were translators of books from English to French, an English author, French authors of children's bi-lingual books, editors, and other professionals. One of the things I found most surprising was that people seem to think very few French people speak English compared to other European countries. Maybe it's just because I come from the US where most people only speak one language, but I totally disagreed. So far everyone else I've talked about it with has disagreed with me. But I can't imagine more people speaking English than already do. Of course France has Belgium and Germany for neighbors, which supposedly are the two best countries for teaching foreign languages (definitely evident judging from the two German assistants here who speak three and four languages respectively, very well!)

I read an article in Le Monde about the American "Good Job" education system of boosting self-esteem, where "creative spelling" is accepted and children are never wrong. It was interesting reading this article about optimism and America, and it got me thinking about how we turn kids into babies... I'm shocked at how teachers in France say how poorly a student has done in front of everyone and grades are made public. In the US grades are passed out face-down so no one else can see what you got. I've definitely come to appreciate this system and see faults with the American system (can't miss the most obvious disadvantage, the scores.) This must-be positive attitude in America is definitely a stereotype though. At the translation conference it was brought up more than once. A few people mentioned that movies and books have to be happy and purely entertainment for Americans, while elsewhere they're open to more and (I think they implied) the audience is more intellectual. It was fun to hear the commentary on America, especially since I think no one suspected there was an American in the room.

One thing I learned from the conference is that I'd never want to be a translator... it's a practically impossible job, and the only translators who get talked about are the ones who made huge mistakes.

I have the internet again so I can at last update the blog! This weekend has been very Christmas-y. Boulogne and Lille are both decked out to the max... in fact everything seems to have tons of Christmas decorations- even the lycee, which seemed odd to me since religion can't be discussed in schools... In France students can't wear crosses or anything related to religion, but Christmas is allowed, they even have les Vacances de Noel which I remember Loveland changed to "Winter Holidays" so as not to offend anyone. But, back to the local festivities. Lille has a giant ferris wheel and merri-go-round in the main square for the Christmas market going on there until the end of the month. I took these pictures before the market opens at 11, so it looks a little empty.

Something the U.S. should borrow from France/Germany (maybe other countries I don't know) is the Christmas market. You can find them in towns all over. Most go on everyday but there's one in the Vieux Ville in Boulogne that takes place only this weekend- pictures to come soon. Even though there wasn't a Christmas market last weekend here we did get into the holiday spirit by going to the L'arrivee de Saint Nicolas. There's a giant parade when Saint Nicolas arrives in town with lots of floats and animals and musicians. Then he leaves in boat by the port during a big fire work show... its pretty unique. Favorite part had to be the geese, which seemed random at first to me, but I loved them so there you go.

You can barely see the dog on the left side hurrying the geese along, not the slightest bit distracted by the audience.

ma promenade préférée

I head to the beach often, and often think that the buildings there are really unattractive and it must have been a pretty coast before these buildings... Then I remember that there is a history behind the not-so beautiful architecture. Much of Boulogne, especially along by the port, was destroyed during WWII and was hastily rebuilt during the 50's. So when I think that its a shame they've made an otherwise beautiful coast so drab, it reminds me of the connection between this area and World War II.

Recently though I walked farther past the beach, and saw there's a path all the way to Wimereux (and beyond to Calais I hear) where you can see a more natural coast, la Cote D'Opale as they call it here in France. It's simply beautiful! The "bad" weather here makes it even more picturesque I've grown to believe.

Happy Thanksgiving from France

Our fellow English assistant from the U.S., Sabrina, came by last night and brought her students artwork from her class about Thanksgiving... love the one on the bottom left, they just didn't quite get the idea. We decided to celebrate Thanksgiving by doing the same, it was a first for Marieke but judging by her artwork I think she can be an honorary American.

A weekend of traditions and local specialties

Le weekend dernier, c'etait super. On Friday evening, I got to experience a French tradition of wine tastings and fetes for the Beaujolais nouveau. Everyone was quick to tell me its not a good French wine, but its a fun tradition. There was a "fete de Beaujolais nouveau" in the teachers lounge at my lycee with a lot of wine, and even more delicious spreads, meats, and bread. It seems that almost all the schools have wine tastings for the teachers. And all the restaurants serve it, you can see many signs:

Its celebrated because this wine, which comes from the Beaujolais region north of Lyon, is only good for a very, very short time. (Wikipedia [sorry Mom] tells me the region is administratively considered to be a part of Burgundy, but the climate is closer the Rhone, so therefore is considered its own region, the vice principal may have also told me this but my French is still far from perfect so I didn't catch his entire talk.) It's released the third Thursday of November, and apparently it's just a big deal all over France even though no one is that wild about the wine. One teacher told me its also really popular in Japan, besides France.

The following night I enjoyed a local specialty that I keep hearing about, called Welsh. Delicious. Its hard to describe but essentially it's bread battered in beer, toasted, and served in a cheddar cheese sauce (cheese is just one ingrediant not sure what else it has), with a fried egg. Or if you get a Welsh complet, like me, it also has ham. Fries are a really important side, so you can dip them in all that cheesey sauce. Bon appetit.

Rendez-vous with the ambassador

Yesterday I travelled through The Worst Weather Ever Known to the North of France, in order to go to Lille to meet the new American ambassador to France. Other attendees were impressed that I came from Boulogne Sur Mer in the weather, but I've realized that if you let cold, heavy rain, and strong winds keep you at home, you will very rarely ever leave home in Boulogne Sur Mer. I was not disappointed with the afternoon with the Ambassador either.



Ambassador Rivken was newly appointed and wanted to meet Americans in the area, so I had the unique opportunity to sit with him and other Americans and interested French people, about 50 in all. He has a career mainly in entertainment but he seems to play the diplomat's role really well. He wasn't a 'yes-man,' and attempted not to be partisan, and overall a very interesting speaker... He didn't prepare any words but I was still so impressed with his direction and clarity and ease. After his introduction, I was delighted with his deep responses to what I thought were stupid questions from the audience members! One girl was upset with France, the country or the government not sure, because English movies are dubbed more often than not. Of all the issues in the world, and this is what she brings up. But he responded that cultural imperialism is an interesting topic, but in fact its most likely not the French government but the movie companies that choose to have them dubbed as opposed to subtitles because they desire countries to feel that the movie is their own, made in their own country.

Another highlight came when a French woman, with a slight British accent asked to read a statement, and continued with a most eloquent little speech about what she has learned from America and why she loves this country and the pioneer spirit... I wish I had a copy but the Ambassador did get one and said he'll quote her in the future. One boy complained that American language assistants could only work 12 hours a week and not have a 2nd job, a restriction not imposed on EU language assistants. The same French lady said that as French assistants in England they were forced to work 12 hours a week and could not work less.



It was really an enlightening afternoon about international politics, diplomacy, and a nice interaction between French and Americans. But a trip to Lille has to involve some kind of sweet treat to be truly worthwhile, so on this rainy, cold afternoon I enjoyed a steaming hot gaufre au nutella, and returned home happily, though drenched, to Boulogne.
I can't tell you good these are, so I'll leave it at that.

A perfect petite boutique in the Old Town

I would have LOVED this little boutique when I was a little girl. I don't know why but everytime I walk in I think of being 3 years old and going shopping with Gigi. I've loved shopping, especially with my grandmother, since forever. And who am I kidding, I think I enjoy this little boutique today as much as I would have as a little girl!from the chandeliers to the bunnies, tres mignonne...

Mes amis, les assistants

Mi amigos! (Richard, Julia, mi, y Marieke) A Mexican restaurant in Boulogne! The food isn't very Mexican and the decor is definitely American Old West, but my fajitas had the freshest shrimp I've ever had at a Mexican restaurant (can't overcome my tendancy to order shrimp at Mexican restaurants.) And now I know where to go if I'm missing Nashville and Meaghan or craving country music, however funny to hear at a Mexican resaurant.

"Home sweet home." It looks a little like a prison from the outside, but we think of Lycee Mariette as home sweet home. Disclaimer; we said lets look serious in this picture then preceeded to smile, except for Richard who thought we meant it.

La Toussaint

La Toussaint two week holiday has come and gone, and it was a wonderful one. The first weekend I fell in love with Paris, where Mareike and I walked all over the city to see the sights. Paris can make a rainy fall afternoon stunning. People always have such opposite views of the city (friendly people/rude people, wonderful city/nothing special) that I was really looking forward to finding out which camp I'd fall in. I knew within minutes of arriving though, that the people and the city are fantastich (picking up some German hanging out with Mareike.)

The next 10 days I spent in Egypt where I saw pyramids, temples, monastaries, the Nile, the Red Sea, the Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens, the Sphinx and more. It was an exceptional experience... really the best way to see a new country is to stay with people from the area. I got to experience the real Egypt. It's a beautiful country, with crazy driving (lanes mean nothing, no lights at night, honking the horn for everything), lots of delicious food, and incredibly friendly people. They really know the art of talking in Egypt, to be sure. Cairo is crowded and noisy unlike anywhere I've been. Pharaonic Egypt is amazing to see in person, but it just makes it harder to believe it at the same time.

Now its back to my relatively quiet life in Boulogne Sur Mer. This morning I celebrated being back by going to the Sunday morning market by the beach and buying the most delicious strawberries I've ever tasted; I wish Suzanne could try them she'd appreciate them even more than me! The man at the strawberry stand let me taste first, probably knowing I'd have to buy them after tasting them. He picked out the smaller strawberries in my container and replaced them with the best looking ones from others. Return customer right here!

Finally the other assistants and I just returned from This is It, the movie about Michael Jackson's last concert. It was a packed house! Its part of American pop culture the French love... I find it so funny.

Dinner au Lycee Mariette

Fish, mussels, pizza, chicken, pork, rabbit, and omelettes are just a few of the entrees we've enjoyed here at the lycee. Thats not to mention the many that we've eaten without knowing what they are exactly. I'm always so impressed with the food served for lunch and dinner here. The assistants can enjoy, for just 2 euro 30, a starter, soup, an entree, something from the salad bar, a dessert, and if you like a Stella or red wine. I've talked with one French student who studied abroad in the U.S. was so disappointed with American school lunches, and so hungry!

You maybe can notice in the pictures that lately I've had a tendancy to throw on some beets to whatever starter I chose at any given dinner, ie beets on my mozzerella and tomatoes, and beets on my... I can't remember what that other small side was.

The choices for dessert are always plentiful and tastey, but sadly this isn't evident from the two pictures I took, literally the only two dinners I passed on a sweet! My favorite so far is une religieuse cafe... just to help you imagine its deliciousness:

The only confusion we have now with dinner (besides not knowing what food we're eating) is planning on who's free for dinner. My friend Richard, from Newcastle, says we can meet for dinner and I say yes, dinner at the cafeteria thats wonderful. Only problem is, I mean dinner and Richard means lunch. If he wanted to meet for dinner he'd say tea and if he meant lunch he'd say dinner. Meanwhile our German friend Mareike is just enjoying listening to the Anglophones being confused by their own language.

a good day for mail

Un joli cadeau de ma mere! (A pretty gift from my mom!) Un collier inspiré par coco chanel, je l'aime.

Sunday morning market by the water

It seems every time I turn around in this town I run into a new market. They're everywhere! It's always a nice surprise. This morning I came across one by the port, next to the fish stands. One stand sold freshly caught raw oysters with a supply of lemons so you can eat some while you stroll around. Seemed a little early in the day to eat raw oysters when I was there, so I'll have to plan it better next time so I can see how they compare to the delicious raw oysters I had at the Jersey shore a few summers ago.